1. Check for precautionary rust or moisture at the diffuser. If you find rust or moisture near the hot runner vent, it means internal condensation or the water pipe may rupture. Moisture can cause a fatal short circuit to the heater. If the machine is not running all year round and needs to be turned off at night or on weekends, the chances of this condensation will increase.
2. Remember to remind the operator not to “clean up” the hot mouth at the gate. If the operator happens to see a small piece of stainless steel at the nozzle fitting, it may be a spout assembly. “Clean up” this seemingly obstructive thing often ruins the hot mouth. In order not to damage the hot mouth, please confirm the type of mouth of the hot runner system before taking action and ensure that all operators are well trained to identify the different types of mouths they are exposed to.
3. Sliding stop. For machines that run endlessly throughout the year, this work should be done once a week. At the end of the year, it was a good time to routinely lubricate these parts.
4. Interactively check the resistance of the heater. You should have measured the resistance value when you first started using the heater, and the end of the year is the time to measure and compare it again. If the resistance value is ±10% floating, it is important to consider replacing the heater to ensure that it does not fail at critical times in the production process. If the initial resistance value has never been measured, it is measured once and the obtained value is used as reference data for future inspection of the heater.
5. Check for signs of wear between the guide post and the guide sleeve. Look for scratches or scratches, such mold parts are worn due to lack of lubrication. If the traces are just emerging, you can extend their life by adding lubricant to the guide post and guide sleeve. If the wear is already serious, you should replace the new one. Otherwise, the cavity and the core part may not fit well, resulting in a thin wall of the parts.